Heading south from pretty much anywhere along Karl Johan’s Gate (that’s to your left when facing Slottsparken) takes you down to the top of the Oslo Fjord.
At the moment, there’s so much construction going on that it’s impossible to walk straight down, but after detouring and weaving around building sites, I get there eventually. Oslo – it will be great when it’s finished!
This is a place where new Oslo meets the old. Around to the right is the Aker Brygge. This is the upmarket, cosmopolitan area of town with expensive shops, bars, restaurants and a few cafes by the harbour side. A promenade allows you to walk all the way to the aerodynamic Astrup Fearnley museum of modern art. Beyond this are some very exclusive apartment buildings with views of the fjord and its islands.
Unfortunately, the only cafe with lots of seating by the harbour is a Starbucks! That was not the vibe I was looking for, so I picked up a pecan pastry from the nearby Narvesen supermarket and a ridiculously expensive – but great – coffee from local chain Joe and the Juice – at least they’re Danish – and sat by the harbour to eat it. I was just relaxing and enjoying the view when a seagull grabbed the pastry from my hand! And the seagulls are big over here!
Around the other side of the harbour is the medieval Akershus Castle and fortress. While building commenced in 1299, many of the present buildings are newer (1600s and 1700s). However, it is still a very atmospheric place to wander around while the sun shines. It is free to walk around the grounds, but there is a charge for entry to the interesting museums on site or for tours. Despite its historical significance, part of the complex is still used as a military base, so entry to different sections can be restricted at times.
The area in the middle is a large public space with statues, and flowers and fountains in the summer – the Town Hall Square. The Town Hall itself is an incredibly ugly brick building, which was started in the 30s but not inaugurated until 1950 as WWII paused construction. It’s a shame they didn’t rethink the design, but I guess it was pretty state of the art for mid-century. The public and private ferries to the museum island and fjord cruises all leave from this part of the harbour.
